Remaking Beaujolais' Moulin à Vent - PDF

Remaking Beaujolais' Moulin à Vent I write about wine and spirits. Opinions expressed by Forbes Contributors are their own. You d think with a posh name like Chateau du Moulin à Vent and possessed of an

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Remaking Beaujolais' Moulin à Vent I write about wine and spirits. Opinions expressed by Forbes Contributors are their own. You d think with a posh name like Chateau du Moulin à Vent and possessed of an 18th century pile that could have served very well as a location for Les Liaisons Dangereuses, the owners would do all they could to capitalize on these assets and make classy wine they could sell for big money. But no, they didn t. Until 2009, at least, the disinterested owners of Chateau du Moulin à Vent in Beaujolais sold 98% of their wine in bulk to négociants and pocketed the cash without having to deal with the inconvenient business of marketing and selling the stuff. There really is a moulin in Moulin a Vent ADVERTISING This is, perhaps, not as illogical as it seems. Moulin à Vent is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais that are allowed to sell their wines under the village name Moulin à Vent, Morgon, Juliènas etc. but even with this advantage they re still Beaujolais, and Beaujolais s not exactly riding a wave of trendiness at the moment like.oh, say, rosé. Not even close. After the marketing triumph of Beaujolais Nouveau in the 1970 s and 80 s the appellation s reputation sunk and sunk as wine drinkers realized that it really wasn t that good at all. Recommended by Forbes Morgan StanleyVoice: The One Conversation You Should Be Having But there are good Beaujolais, age worthy Beaujolais, fine, interesting Beaujolais, and they re made in the 10 Cru villages. Step forward Jean Jacques Parinet and his son Edouard. In 2009 they bought the property and embarked upon a major, and very expensive, renovation upgrading the cellars and replanting many of the vineyards. Jean Jacques Parinet They set out from the beginning to make the best quality wine possible an approach not always encountered in the region and its success is on display in IMax brilliance throughout the range of the five wines I tasted with Edouard on his recent visit to New York. Edouard Parinet But there s more. In addition to this focus on quality, they re doing something radically different in the cellar, or at least radically different for Beaujolais. Beaujolais acquires its distinctive personality at least in part by the use of a fermentation process known as carbonic maceration don t ask and they have abandoned it. The result is a range of fabulous, polished, beautifully made, thoroughly modern wines expertly crafted to appeal to today s tastes; they re just not Beaujolais. Yet, Chateau du Moulin à Vent could very well be the remaking of the appellation, and perhaps even open a whole new world for Beaujolais. Videos on the vineyards and winemaking at Chateau Moulin à Vent available here and here. The Wines: Couvent des Thorins 2014 $22 No oak contact at all, which accounts for the vibrancy, and made from vines up to 60 years old, which accounts for the focused minerality. Intense but not big. Needs about 5 years aging to polish its rambunctious edges, but even now it s a delightfully fresh and accessible wine. Chateau Moulin à Vent 2011 $38 100% destemmed, no carbonic maceration. Aging: 20% new oak, 40% old oak, 40% stainless steel, all resulting in a bigger, rounder wine than the Couvent des Thorins above. Chateau Moulin à Vent, La Rochelle 2012 $60 Such a difficult vintage it s a miracle they made any wine at all, yet alone one as classy as this. 70 year old vines of Rochelle produced only 16 hectoliters per hectare, less than half the appellation norm. Shows huge promise on the nose savory notes along with bright red fruit and a volcanic minerality but doesn t deliver on the palate, yet. Give it five years, though, and it will be an elegant and structured beauty, Chateau Moulin à Vent, Croix des Verillats 2011 $52 A richer, rounder wine thanks to a warmer vintage. Not exactly my style but a real crowd pleaser. Chateau Moulin à Vent, Champs du Coeur 2011 $58 Similar to the Croix des Verillats above, just more so. Plump, juicy and sexy this is a thoroughly modern luxury red.
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